2010年5月22日 星期六

用心小廚

(轉載自KC在報章的專欄文章)

跟飲食界高人葉一南兄酒聚,談到經營飲食者的良心。有說香港地,租貴、人工高,好食材差不多全假外求。要做到真材實貨,不下庸料,不加假味,不耍虛招,價錢又為大眾所接受的,難矣。難怪有不少隱世高手,寧願屈在較少租金壓力的會所內,優哉悠哉地做好菜色。


順德聯誼會陳師傅的菜色



不過雖說經營食店難,但漏夜趕科場的人仍然不斷。最後的試菜局也特別多,有一天,認識一位用心的廚子Jareth。他開了一間小店子,只得十來個座位,就開在黃泥涌道口,3C會對面的唐樓上。名字特別,叫連粵日﹝禮頓道2A號2樓 2808 0309﹞,意思就是食物能叫人「年月日再三回味」。叫他為何開店,他的答案很簡單,就是他喜歡煮,也喜歡分享,用好材料做好菜,將朋友吃過都讚不絕口的菜色做出來給客人吃。

青出於藍的鵝肝蛋飯


一晚,找了一碗麵的米高同去試菜,吃了十多味,發現是真的很不錯。醉蛋的溏心鴨蛋黃甘香腴美,甜味跟油香平衡得很好。清湯腩用上的是最好的爽腩,鬆化可口,牛清湯也鮮清甜美,吃了一口,我只問了一個問題,這麼好的牛腩真的每天也拿得到,Jareth笑說是沒有問題的。最後的一味鵝肝蛋撈飯,是主理人在另一居酒屋吃過,搬了過來賣的。鵝肝加上蛋黃,味道甘香,口感鮮腴,個人覺得,是青出於藍的。

美味背後,都是用上好材料及相當的心機。也慶幸又有用心店子出現,食家之福也。

相關的網誌文章

2010年5月20日 星期四

About KC ~ by HK Magazine

有關KC的一個雜誌訪問,撰自HK Magazine。

Gourmet KC
May 21st, 2010



The most prolific blogger on food review site Openrice, Gourmet KC (pictured anonymously above) has written over 5,000 articles on the different restaurants in the city. He talks to Carson Chow about his goal to review every restaurant in town.

HK Magazine: Are you trying to review every restaurant in Hong Kong or something?

Gourmet KC: I don’t have a mission statement that says: “I’d like to eat at every restaurant in Hong Kong.” But I try not to go back to the same place, no matter how good it is. I have to explore new places to eat every day. I can say that because of the way I eat, I am pretty confident that I will one day cover every place in Hong Kong. It’s just a matter of time.

HK: What qualifies you to write reviews of Hong Kong’s restaurants?

KC: I don’t write about anything unless I understand it. For example, I have reviewed Japanese ramen in Hong Kong, but only after having been to Japan and seen how the Japanese make it. That’s a required thing for me to do before I can review something fairly. That’s why I don’t talk about wine.

HK: How many times a week do you eat out?

KC: Sixteen times, including breakfast. I usually go out to eat at breakfast time. Contrary to what you might think, I don’t go out that much at night, because I like to eat dinner at home with my family.

HK: Do you worry about your health or your weight, eating out at so many restaurants?

KC: To be honest, I actually do worry. That’s why I am a marathon runner and I run four times a week. I think it is important to be able to balance eating and exercise. You can read from my reviews that I don’t like the idea of overeating. I want to promote a lifestyle of eating healthily.

HK: Openrice is becoming very influential in the restaurant world. Do you think that other users or online reviewers take it seriously enough?

KC: Some people just desperately want to show everyone that they are food experts. Of course, I am not a professional critic, but we have to be responsible for what we post online. I don’t think it’s fair to judge something when we don’t even know what good food is.

HK: What do the other reviewers think of you? Is there a community there?

KC: Whenever I write my reviews, I tend to be very detail-oriented and consistent with my approach. It’s a kind of vanity that gets me into trouble a lot but that’s my attitude towards food. I like to give a well-rounded critique, pointing out what’s good and what’s not so good at the same time. I definitely think there’s a community at Openrice, and it’s a growing one too. I couldn’t say I have achieved anything, but if my reviews could affect how others eat, then that’s something I’ve done for people. That’s my motivation to share with the whole world what I have eaten.

HK: Is there any dish or ingredient that you don’t eat?

KC: Salmon sashimi. Salmon isn’t even from Japan originally! Japanese don’t eat raw salmon and they definitely don’t prepare it that way. I tend to stay away from it. But otherwise, I eat basically everything.

HK: What would you eat for your very last meal on earth?

KC: That’s easy—Chinese food! It’s not really about the kind of food I would eat, but who I would eat it with. I like eating with people, and I think it’s more important than the food itself. I want to eat my last meal with my family, and we always have Chinese food together, such as dim sum or BBQ pork.

CLICK HERE FOR ORIGINAL PESSAGE.

2010年5月4日 星期二

暖入心脾的鹽味湯

(轉載自KC在報章的專欄文章)

去日本,除了吃鐵板燒、燒肉及和食,一定也會吃拉麵。尤其在寒冬,在茫茫雪路中看到那寫著「ラーメン」的紅色旗仔,人就會不期然的行入內。喝口熱湯,吃得飽足,才再上路。



一碗好吃的拉麵,廚子會先將蔬菜爆炒,再加入熬了一整個下午的湯頭,加味噌或其他調味,燒得滾燙,再放在另外淥好的麵條上面,盛在寬口大碗中,最後舖上日式叉燒又或是溏心蛋,加上粟米、荀及蔥,就是最正宗美味的湯麵。



談起本地的拉麵,真的乏善可陳。這也難怪,水準好的拉麵,一個濃濃的湯底,加上似樣子一點的材料,沒有一百幾十不成樣子,所以就時有日式拉麵「唔抵食」之說。沒有市場,也不會好的店子,此乃千古不變的定律。

很多朋友吃拉麵總拘泥於配料,但在我而言,著重的只有湯底,因為那才是真功夫所在。我獨愛鹽味湯底,沒得花巧,要做得好,必要有真材實料及上佳的火侯。在香港,及格的就只有函館元祖北海道拉麵(鰂魚涌海光街11號地下B舖 2562 8706)。店子以前在華蘭路那邊,幾年前才搬了過這邊。日前才去吃過,湯頭熱,味道清鮮潤美。所以每吃來這裡吃麵,麵未吃已喝了小半碗湯,麵吃完時,碗底必見天,湯已全喝光。麵是用上札幌西山麵,跟交易廣場的姊妹店札幌是一樣的。水準雖然是比舊店時下降了一點,但仍然是全港最好的鹽味湯。


當然,如果推門所見的是飄著雪的船見坂,而不是在修路的海光街,感覺會好好多。

2010年5月2日 星期日

蠔季後的流浮山

(轉載自本人報章的飲食專欄)

香港吃海鮮,世界聞名,君不見米芝蓮評本地做粵菜的食肆,十之八九都有碟蒸魚在那段酒家的介紹之內。而在文章中,也多會推介鮑魚及龍蝦等海鮮。泡製海鮮,又真的是廣東菜中不可或缺的一環,遠在上海或北京,「港式美食」的代表,除了茶餐廳,就是那一味芝士焗龍蝦或避風塘炒蟹。


走遍流浮山的海鮮檔



上月六福大局之後,月初往流浮山走了一轉,看看在那裡搞個海鮮飯局的可能性。先往流浮山正大街盡頭的魚檔看看,唯陣容甚薄弱。沒有什麼生蠔是理解的,始終蠔季已過。方利是「飛機貨」,更不要提三刀了。蟹是沒有幾隻,標示說是奄仔蟹的,泰半也是大大隻的,摸上手殼也是硬硬的,何「奄仔」之有?找相熟行家一問,這些都是東南亞來的貨色。剩下的全都是鮮鮑、瀨尿蝦、大青斑、澳洲龍蝦等,要吃這些,何需老遠來流浮山?在市區找間海鮮酒家就行了。

幸好還有九節蝦



幸好還有九節蝦,在許照記拿了一斤,價錢是68元。拿去麗群軒(流浮山山東街10號 2472 4121)找群姐,統統白灼上檯。九節蝦雖然不大隻,但吃起來味道鮮美,肉質爽甜,是任何蝦也不能相比。加上不能放養,所以見到的多是鮮活的,不要錯過。再加個豉油王炒麵,這裡的廚房,炒粉麵飯也都有一手的,知道的人不多。

是本地蝦中之極品!



一斤蝦,一碟炒麵,是簡單美味的海鮮午餐。

群姐的豉油王炒麵也很得手



相關的網誌文章。