在云云燒臘當中,特別喜歡烤乳豬。雖然遠至法國的布根地、西班牙的塞戈維亞,又或是德國及葡萄牙,你都會在餐館的菜單上找到烤乳豬的踪影,但論水準,沒有地方及得上廣東的烤乳豬。
乳豬不同中豬,因為皮頗薄,烤出來只有光皮,沒有麻皮。但不要以為這就簡單,要做出好的烤乳豬,事先的醃肉風乾的功夫要做足之餘,將乳豬上叉再在炭火上慢慢碌燒,少半點花機也不成。好吃的乳豬,必要是連皮帶肉的,皮是酥化香脆,不帶苦味;肉要鬆軟鮮美,略連肥脂但不過膩的為最佳。
上年在皇后街熟食中心發現木佬燒烤,那裡的現烤乳豬,原隻只售208個大洋,便宜好吃。之後卻聽聞是因為租約問題,忽然結業了,老饕們大嘆可惜。近日接到為食友電函急告,原來主理人宋先生已在深水埗擇吉開舖,捲土重來,名字取得有趣又貼題,就叫「賣豬仔」(九龍深水埗順寧道17號1號舖 2194-8188)。立即組局去吃,發現烤豬品質味道俱勝前。好事之徒入廚房一看,原來由以前的「太空烤爐」換上了現在的「碌燒爐」,師傅是收到單後,逐隻乳豬去烤的,難怪水準是比以前高了。
除了烤豬、燒豬仔骨、鹵水豬仔腳以外,主理人還找來泰廚,在門外烤魚烤肉的。要了烤香茅烏頭及烤大眼雞各一,俱是烤得皮香肉甜,轉眼已給吃剩魚骨。吃得杯盤狼藉,每人也只是區區百一銀,絕對是便宜得令人笑。
喜歡吃烤乳豬的朋友,不要錯過這小店子。
KC, I don't understand why you said "乳豬不同中豬,....只有光皮,沒有麻皮"! The one that you shown at 賣豬仔, and also at Kimberley Court, or Sheraton, etc., are all 乳豬 (just few months old) and they were all 麻皮! The true 光皮 one would be the one at 季季紅 which was obviously with a smooth skin and no uneven specks on the skin. That's why I am confused with your statement.
回覆刪除Please also see this:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=zh-TW&sl=zh-CN&u=http://women.wenda.sogou.com/question/76234483.html&ei=P3tLS83KOoHm7AP9_5zXCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CCsQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3D%25E4%25B9%25B3%25E8%25B1%25AC%25E9%25BA%25BB%25E7%259A%25AE%2B%25E5%2585%2589%25E7%259A%25AE%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7ADBR_en
it describes how young suckling pigs have transformed from 光皮 to the now more popular 麻皮 (they are talking about 乳豬 very specifically!)
But in regards to the pig at 賣豬仔, I absolutely agree that it is superb and truly a BIG Bargain! (otherwise I wouldn't have gone there twice in 2 weeks!)
Little Meg
小Meg,
回覆刪除真正的乳豬皮薄,是做不出麻皮的效果。君怡閣的乳豬皮雖不算很光滑,是師傅不去很起勁的刺身燒豬皮時所產生的小氣泡,但離麻皮還差很遠。其實不光滑的乳豬皮,是燒得不好的乳豬皮,不是麻皮。
燒肉的脆皮,就是麻皮了。
我的認知是這樣的。
KC